LALIQUE, René - b. 1860 Ay, Marne, d. 1945 Paris - WGA

LALIQUE, René

(b. 1860 Ay, Marne, d. 1945 Paris)

French jeweller, glassmaker and designer. As a young student, he showed great artistic promise and his mother guided him toward jewellery making. From 1876 to 1878 he apprenticed with Louis Aucoc, a noted Parisian jeweller. Unable to further his training in France, he went to London to study at Sydenham College, which specialized in the graphic arts.

On his return to Paris in 1880, he found employment as a jewellery designer creating models for firms like Cartier and Boucheron. By the 1890s, he had opened his workshop in Paris and become one of the most admired jewellers of the day.

He rejected the current trend for diamonds in grand settings, instead used such gemstones as bloodstones, tourmalines, cornelians and chrysoberyls together with plique à jour enamelling and inexpensive metals for his creations. His jewellery, which was in the Art Nouveau style, included hair combs, collars, brooches, necklaces and buckles, and he also branched out into metalwork, producing gold boxes, inkwells and daggers. His favourite motifs included flowers and insects - poppies and anemones, and dragonflies and scarabs. His international reputation was established at the Exposition Universelle in 1887 in Paris and by securing such patrons as the actress Sarah Bernhardt (1844-1933).

In 1898 Lalique established a glass workshop in Clairfontaine where he largely employed the cire perdue process. In 1907 he was commissioned by François Coty to design some labels for his perfume bottles; Lalique also designed and created perfume bottles for other perfumers. In 1910 he bought a glassworks in Combs-la-Ville and in 1919 another in Wingen-sur-Moder, Alsace. At the latter, he employed the press-moulding technique for mass-produced items including light fittings, vases, table lamps, clockcases, bowls, ashtrays, ceiling fittings, furniture and car mascots, all of which were designed in the Art Deco style.

'Cockerel' diadem
'Cockerel' diadem by

'Cockerel' diadem

'Serpents' corsage ornament
'Serpents' corsage ornament by

'Serpents' corsage ornament

This corsage ornament is one of the paradigms of Ren� Lalique’s jewellery production, not only for the mastery of its execution, as for the theme chosen. Reptiles were a source of inspiration to which Lalique returned throughout his life not only for jewellery but also for his glass, bronzes, etc.

The corsage ornament is made up of nine serpents entwined to form a knot from which the bodies of the other eight fall in a cascade, the ninth rising in the centre, at the top of the jewel. From the open mouths of the reptiles in the attack position strings of pearls were hung.

The present piece is probably the only one in existence.

Anemone
Anemone by

Anemone

The picture shows the middle of a necklace by Ren� Lalique, whose favourite motifs included flowers, insects, poppies and anemones.

Brooch in the shape of a fool's head
Brooch in the shape of a fool's head by

Brooch in the shape of a fool's head

Interior view
Interior view by

Interior view

During the 1930s Lalique became increasingly interested in religious art and his work included the interior (1931-32) of a chapel in the convent in Douvres-la-D�livrande, Normandy.

Lily of the Valley Comb
Lily of the Valley Comb by

Lily of the Valley Comb

Necklace
Necklace by

Necklace

Lalique avoided using precious stones and the conservatively classical settings favoured by other leading jewellers of the time. Rather, he combined semiprecious stones with such materials as enamel, horn, ivory, coral, rock crystal, and irregularly shaped Baroque pearls in settings of organic inspiration, frequently accentuated by asymmetrical curves or elaborate flourishes.

He designed this powerfully evocative necklace for his second wife, Augustine-Alice Ledru, around the turn of the century. The repeats of the main motif - an attenuated female nude whose highly stylized curling hair swirls around her head and whose arms sensuously curve down to become a border enclosing enamel-and-gold swans and an oval cabochon amethyst - are separated by pendants set with fire opals mounted in swirling gold tendrils.

Tiger Necklace
Tiger Necklace by

Tiger Necklace

Ren� Lalique revolutionized jewellery design by combining precious and non-precious materials selected according to their aesthetic appeal. By 1904, the year that he exhibited this necklace at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition in St. Louis, Missouri, Lalique had progressed beyond Art Nouveau, the movement with which he was originally associated. He began emphasizing compositions with symmetrical components and the use of animal motifs in a style that would become fully manifested in the designs he created for moulded glass several years later.

Tray
Tray by

Tray

Guimard saw himself as an “art architect”, which in the context of Art Nouveau means a craftsman of all the arts. He set to work on a plate with as much circumspection as on an architectural component. All elements are composed in harmony and worked out in the tiniest detail. Preference is given to malleable materials such as cast iron, bronze and flexible metals. Here Guimard attains the greatest perfection, and his metal works are almost beyond comparison with his creations in wood.

The plate is a gift from Mme Hector Guimard (1949).

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