WOLFERS, Philippe
Belgian jeweller, designer and sculptor. The son of the master goldsmith Louis Wolfers (1820-1892), he graduated from the Académie des Beaux-Arts in Brussels in 1875 and entered his father’s workshop as an apprentice, where he acquired comprehensive technical training. Influenced by the Rococo Revival and Japanese art, in the 1880s, he created sensitively curved pieces in gold and silver decorated with asymmetrically distributed floral motifs, which heralded the Art Nouveau style.
After 1890, he produced two kinds of work: goldsmithing and jewellery designs for production by Wolfers Frères and one-off pieces produced to his designs in the workshop that he had established c. 1890-92. Typical of the latter is Art Nouveau goldsmiths’ work and jewellery (e.g. orchid hair ornament, 1906; Victoria and Albert Museum, London), crystal vases carved into cameos and ivory pieces. Ivory was then in plentiful supply from the Congo, and from 1893, Wolfers used it to make unusual pieces with such evocative titles as Caress of the Swan (an ivory and bronze vase with marble base, 1897; Musées Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire, Brussels) and Civilisation and Barbarism (a work combining ivory, silver and marble, 1897; Musées Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire, Brussels). His creations were well received at the Exposition Internationale in Antwerp (1894) and the Exposition Internationale in Brussels (1897).
Encouraged by his success, he committed Wolfers Frères to the Art Nouveau style. He exhibited at the Munich Secession (1898, 1899) and in 1900 showed an important collection of his jewellery at the Paris Salon. In 1902 he exhibited one of his most astonishing creations at the Esposizione Internazionale d’Arte Decorativa in Turin: Fairy with Peacock (untraced; drawing in King Baudouin Foundation, Brussels).
As the fashion for Art Nouveau waned, he became less interested in jewellery and devoted himself to sculpture in precious materials, enriched with enamel, hardstones and precious stones. In the 1920s, Wolfers tried to give a new direction to goldsmithing by using austere, geometrical functional forms that could be adapted to machine production. He also created a distinctive style of interior decoration with the Gioconda ensemble for the Palais de la Belgique in the Exposition Universelle des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris (1925): the décor, furniture, carpets, table linen, silver and glass were all based on the theme of contrasting polygons, resulting in a series of stepped triangles.